whidbeywaterfilters

Maintenance

Maintenance

BACKWASH VALVE SETTINGS

  • TIME: To set the time, press the left reset button, then press and hold either arrow button until the letters “TD” (Time of Day) appear. Move the arrow buttons to set the time to the current time. Remember, any time the power goes out, these clocks will need to be re-set.
  • CHANGING THE TIME OF BACKWASH: These timers are pre-set. The second tank is usually set for 2:00 am and the third tank for 3:00 am, so they don’t backwash at the same time. If you have an arsenic tank, ti will be pre-set for 4:00. To change the time of backwashing, hold down both arrow buttons simultaneously until “DO” (Day Override, or Daily Operation) appears. Press the reset button again, and “RT” (Regeneration Time) will appear. With the arrow buttons, change the time to your preferred settings.
  • RUNNING A MANUAL BACKWASH: To run a backwash cycle manually, press and hold the left re-set button until the letters “BW” (Back Wash) appear. Release the button and let the cycle run.
  • SETTING BACKWASH FREQUENCY The backwash clock comes factory-set to run a backwash cycle once every three days for the second tank and once every seven days for the third tank. If your water has high levels of iron or manganese, daily backwashing will produce better results. For example, with heavy iron in the water, backwash the hydroxite tank every day, and the carbon tank every other day. To change the number of days between cycles, press both the down and the up arrows simultaneously, and hold them down until the letters “DO” (Day Override) show on the screen. Press the arrow buttons to adjust the frequency. Then push the reset button on the left to save your new setting.

CLEANING THE ELECTRODE CHAMBERS

  1. Before starting, gather your tools: rubber gloves, filter wrenches*, two 5-gallon buckets, one gallon of muriatic acid
  2. Half-fill a five-gallon bucket with water. to be used later for rinsing the chambers.
  3. Turn the valves off at each end of each chamber.
  4. Place the water bucket beneath the hose bibs and drain the chambers.
  5. Unplug the electrode wires by pulling them off the tabs.
  6. Using large channel locks, strap wrenches, or oil filter curved channel locks, loosen the two unions on each chamber.
  7. Wear gloves and possibly goggles. Pour a gallon of muriatic acid into a second 5-gallon bucket.
  8. Add water if you wish to stretch the use of the acid: 1:1 up to 1:5 parts acid to water. This lengthens the soaking time.
  9. Remove the unions by hand and place the two chambers gently into the bucket of acid.
  10. Make sure they are submerged. Watch them bubble.
  11. After 10-12 minutes, the bubbles should slow down and stop. The plates should be clean.
  12. With gloves, remove the chambers and visually examine them. They should look clean and new.
  13. When they are clean, rinse them in the bucket of water.
  14. When putting them back, check that the rubber “O” rings are inside the unions.
  15. Make sure the titanium goes at the beginning and the copper goes at the end. Replace them where they came from.
  16. Hand-tighten the unions. Snug them slightly more with the wrenches.
  17. Reconnect the wires. Make sure both reds are on one side and the blacks are on the other: one positive plate, one negative plate.
  18. Turn on the inflowing valves to check for leaks. If the union leaks, tighten it a little more.
  19. Now turn on both valves and your water is back in use.
  20. Whenever water is running, the red lights on the control box should rotate. They alternate directions of rotation as the electrical polarity changes back and forth from positive to negative. If the dots do not rotate when water is being used, please contact us for assistance.
* Strap wrenches or large channel locks work, but lightest weight and easiest to handle would be a set of curved filter pliers designed for removing oil filters from cars. My preference is FloTool 10627GT GRIPTECH Filter Pliers because they are rubber-coated, light-weight, and grip firmly.

RE-BEDDING MEDIA TANKS

Over time, the media in the filter tanks will foul, break down and become ineffective, and must be replaced. The Birm media in the second tank will last 3-5 years. The Granular Activated Carbon in the third tank will last 8-10 years. Re-bedding a filter tank can take about and hour, and should be done by a professional. If you are inclined to do this yourself, here is the procedure.
  1. Turn off the water to and from the filters.
  2. Open the hose bibs in the filter section and release the pressure. Another option is to turn the by-pass valves on the tank.
  3. Unplug the timer, remove the drain fitting, and place the tank on a hand truck.
  4. Move the tank outside to a place suitable for emptying the contents. Run a hose over to the location.
  5. Unscrew the timer valve and remove it from the tank.
  6. Tip the tank gently onto its side and insert a running hose inside the tank to flush out the old media and gravel.
  7. Remove the basket and riser, rinse out the tank interior, and clean the tank.
  8. Make a new basket and riser to match the original.
  9. Tape the end of the riser so nothing can enter it.
  10. Set the tank back up. Center the taped basket and riser in the tank.
  11. Place a funnel on top of the tank and add 22-25 lb. of gravel.
  12. Add one cubic foot of new media (1.5 cu. ft. maximum for a 10×54 tank).
  13. Blow or rinse off the mouth of the tank and remove the tape from the riser.
  14. Move the tank back into position with the treatment system.
  15. Fill the tank with water to allow time for the media to absorb and expand and to reduce the dust.
  16. Carefully thread the timer valve back on top of the tank, reconnect the by-pass and drain fitting, and plug in the power.
  17. Run a complete backwash cycle.